Earth, wheat, and fire at Michelin-starred Faro

Who says a Michelin-starred New York restaurant has to be expensive? Not Faro. Located in a former MoMA art storage space (seriously, how hipster-Bushwick can this get), the casual nighttime hangout puts out plates of handmade fresh pasta made with locally-sourced grains priced around $20.

The menu is constantly changing to reflect seasonal ingredients, but here’s what we had last night.

I had the bucatini with pastured chicken confit, Alpine cheese, and chili ($20).

The flavors were amazing, but the pasta wasn’t, in terms of shape and texture – they took al dente too far (or not far enough?) and the bucatini were undercooked. The pasta shape was awkward enough for this dish, but the stiffness made it worse. It’s important for chefs to be considerate of how the pasta shape actually works with the rest of the dish – you wouldn’t put angel hair in a super chunky ragu, for example – so I was disappointed by this. Online reviews of Faro (they all seem to be of different menus, which is expected, due to the frequent menu changes) reflect how the dishes here can be hit-or-miss. Yeah, it’s experimental, but one Michelin star should indicate a basic level of consistency in quality (especially since one of the founders is a Jean-Georges alum). It’s not like Faro is the only place doing seasonal menus either.

Since the rest of the meal was so good, I guess this is a great excuse for me to come back frequently so the ratio of hits vs. misses gets better…

This was duck with beets, pistachio, and brewers yeast jus ($29).

I’m not sure what these are, since the menu on Faro’s menu is already out of date (they really change quickly – an excuse to visit often), but everyone said everything was very good. My friends had better experiences with their pasta, which just looks less undercooked.

We finished with an excellent labneh panna cotta with walnuts, honey, mint, and fig ($10) and a rich, seriously chocolate-y turtle pie topped with salted whipped cream ($10). I’d never had salted whipped cream before, but it works as well as salted caramel does.

Because a member of our party had a nut allergy, the walnuts came on the side.

In terms of atmosphere, Faro is very loud and difficult to hold a conversation in. The decor is like an upscale-d Chipotle, which means it fits right into the Bushwick Collective. There’s a bar, a wood-fired oven, and a pretty good wine list.

Excited to see what this place can do with their tasting menu, available only on Fridays and Saturdays at 8 pm.

 

Faro

436 Jefferson Street Brooklyn, NY 11237

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